MADE TO MEASURE

Waist

The waist of the trousers should sit somewhere between the hip bone and the navel depending on personal preference, and you should be able to easily slide one finger between the waistband and your body.

Jacket Length

The suit jacket should reach the first knuckle of your thumb. But It may need adjusting based on your personal body proportions.

Trouser Length

For a standard half break trousers should have one break at the top of the shoe, and socks should not show while standing.

Cuffs

About one half inch of your dress shirt should show below the jacket at the wrists.

Vents

The number of openings in the back of the jacket is important. The single vent is an American style of jacket that is slick and modern. The double vent is more the traditional British style that allows for more movement in the hip.

Buttons

One, two or three buttons are a matter of taste, though you should never fasten the bottom button on any suit. Always unfasten buttons when sitting down.

Consider movement

Will you be riding a bicycle to work (people do!)? Allow extra room for leg motion if you are an active gentleman. If you sit most of the day, the modern slim cut may feel a bit constricting.

Get REAL measurements and breathe

Be honest. If you stand up straight with abs tucked in for your fitting, but in reality have a bit a tendency toward “slouching”, your suit will feel too tight. Don’t suck in your stomach or flex your biceps when getting measured. Always allow enough room to breathe when being measured. Always measure to the quarter inch for accuracy.

The Finer Points of Wearing a Suit

The width of your tie should match the width of your lapel.

Your tie should just reach the waistband of your trousers or the top of your belt buckle.

Your suit jacket should be just long enough to cover your pants’ zipper and butt.

The top button of a two-button (or the middle button of a three-button) jacket should fall at or above your navel.

Sleeve cuffs should be exposed about half an inch.

Make sure that your socks are long enough that there’s no exposed leg when sitting down.

A good tailor can work wonders on a suit that you love but know it won’t fit or feel like it did before.

Tips for Smart Suit Shopping

Choose fabric according to how often you’ll wear the suit. The most versatile option is a soft, but durable wool-like super 120 (a measure of yarn fineness), any higher is too delicate for daily use.

When buying an off-the-rack suit, the number one thing to check is how the shoulders fit.

A collar gap between your jacket’s lapels and your shirt’s collar can signify an ill-fitting jacket.

If you’re going for more formal business attire, opt for a double-button, notched lapel jacket.

For a more casual, trendy look, opt for a single-button, peak-lapel jacket.

You should be able to slip your hand between your chest and your buttoned jacket such that it feels snug, but with room to move.

Visible stitches around the edges of your lapels (called pick-stitching) aren’t necessarily a sign of a well-made garment anymore. However, they can be an attractive decorative flourish — as long as they’re subtle.